In "24 Hour Party People,"
the 2002 movie about Factory Records and the Madchester music scene of the
'80s, a quote stands out. Producer Martin Hannett, giving advice to Joy
Division (and ultimately New Order) drummer Stephen Morris, tells him to play
"faster but slower." It is contradictory and opposite at the same
time, but Hannett had a point, however enigmatic it seemed. You don't have to
rush and, instead, the speed should be natural, without forcing it. How do we
apply this premise to the way we dress? Well, although it may seem otherwise,
it is not as easy as it seems; Casual attire always has to look like something
unimportant, like you don't put too much effort into dressing but don't look
sloppy. Order is essential, as is planning.
It is a changing room without rules but
with keys. These are.
In 24 Hour Party People, the 2002 film
about Factory Records and the '80s Madchester music scene, one quote stands
out. Producer Martin Hannett, in giving guidance to Joy Division's (and
eventually New Order's) drummer Stephen Morris, tells him to play "Faster
but slower." It's contradictory and definitely oxymoronic, but Hannett had
a point, no matter how enigmatic it seemed. You can't rush through things, and
instead, speed should be effortless but not forced. How does this apply to
dressing?
Yet, your T-shirt and jeans shouldn't
ever seem haphazard, like you just threw them together before you stumbled out
the door and into the world. Order is essential, as is some planning. You can't
cobble it all together, no matter how seemingly basic, and expect it to be
coordinated.
Precision is integral to even life's
most seemingly straightforward facets. Whether you're looking to make an
impression or feel up to facing the world day by day, here's how you can dress
casually instead of sloppily.
KNOW YOUR SIZE
This statement is not an exaggeration.
You can wear the most expensive clothes, but if something hangs from your
shoulders or squeezes your chest or waist, you will always make a bad
impression on others.
It is true that many men do not know
their true size and end up buying t-shirts and shirts that are too large or too
small, especially if they do not try on the clothes in stores or calculate the
size by eye. This causes the fabric to wrinkle in places and darken your shape,
so that it looks like you are carrying a garbage bag (especially if the garment
is not ironed). And it is that something must be clear: a good fit does not
mean that it is tight or that it fits the skin. Armhole seams should be just
below the shoulders, without sagging or restricting freedom of movement. The
cuffs, meanwhile, should reach just to the wrist, not behind. As for the
collar, do the two finger test: if two do not fit, the shirt is too tight, and
if they fit too many it means that it is too loose. In addition, no shirts,
except those that are intentionally long or with a shirt hem, should not exceed
the back pockets of the pants. Keep in mind that this excess fabric will pile
up when you tuck the garment around your waist.
FIT IS EVERYTHING
This statement is no exaggeration. You
can purchase the most expensive garments, and something that hangs from your
shoulders or strains across your chest and midsection will always project a
poor impression. Studies have shown that many men don't know their true size
and, in turn, end up purchasing T-shirts and shirts that are too large or too
small, especially if they don't try on garments in stores or have come to rely
on vanity sizing. This effect causes the fabric to bunch up in places and
obscures your form, so that it looks like you're wearing a rubbish bag,
especially when the garment isn't ironed. A good fit, however, doesn't mean
tight or even skin-skimming. Rather, the seams around your armholes should hit
just below the shoulder - not sag down nor restrict your range of motion.
Cuffs, similarly, should hit right at the wrist - not behind. With your collar,
do the two-finger test: if you can't fit two in, the shirt is too tight, and
too many means it's too loose. As well, no shirt, excluding an intentionally
long or shirttail-hem style, should extend beyond your trousers' back pockets.
Realize that this excess fabric will bunch up once you tuck the garment into
your waistband.
DO NOT FORGET THE CUT
Fit and cut, while similar, are not
synonymous. You can wear something with a loose or slim silhouette and,
depending on its size and your body type, it can look bad on you. Knowing which
cut goes well with your body type and how it can affect the fit will help you a
lot when it comes to dressing. And it is that beyond the garments of fine or
wide cut, the angles play an important role, softening or accentuating your
torso in the process and interacting with the color or the pattern. In general,
fine or straight cut garments are the most versatile for medium-sized bodies
when it comes to casual wear. At the same time, the lines need to be sharp -
but not the sharp edges - to highlight the torso and lower half, rather than
darken them.
DON'T IGNORE THE CUT
Fit and cut, while similar, aren't
synonymous. You can have something with a relaxed or slim silhouette, and
depending upon its size and your body type, it can still fit poorly. To some
degree, you should understand which cut works with your body type and how it
can affect fit. Beyond slim- to wide-cut garments, angles play a role, softening
or accentuating your torso in the process and interacting with the color or
pattern. Generally, a slim- to regular-cut garment delivers the most
versatility for average-sized bodies when it comes to casualwear. At the same
time, you want defined lines - but not sharp edges - to highlight your torso
and lower half, rather than obscure it.
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